The mistresses of the courtyards – female entrepreneurial spirit in the Hackesche Höfe

A Life with Leather

Leather was practically in Anne Schmitt’s cradle. Not literally, of course, but the material has accompanied her family for generations. In the 1920s, her great-grandfather began producing high-quality leather gloves. As a schoolgirl, Anne Schmitt already worked in the family business and designed her first own models.

After finishing school in England, she studied International Business in London while simultaneously joining the family company as Head Designer for a glove collection comprising around 100 models per year. She also oversaw sales in the UK, France, and Spain.

Gloves Off – From Gloves to Bags

But the creative scope of gloves is limited. After designing an estimated 1,000 pairs, Schmitt longed for greater artistic freedom. Moving into handbags was a natural step. Here, too, she worked with leather and could apply her expertise in materials, craftsmanship, and production processes.

At last, she was free to explore form – something “that still fascinates and excites me to this day,” says Schmitt. Her sculptural designs quickly attracted attention and received numerous awards, including the prestigious Red Dot Design Award.

The Two Behind Gretchen

Anne Schmitt founded the label Gretchen in 2006 together with her husband. He, too, comes from an entrepreneurial family – though from the steel industry. Early on, the couple knew they wanted to build their own company.

Their roles are clearly defined: she is responsible for design, material selection, collection planning, and store design; he oversees administrative and organizational matters. In 2012, they found in Courtyard 4 of the Hackesche Höfe an environment that perfectly matched the brand – high-quality, creative, and distinctive, surrounded by other independent labels. A second store followed in Düsseldorf in 2013.

To mark its 20th anniversary, Gretchen will launch a limited-edition collection in September, accompanied by special in-store events.

A start in the wild east

Berlin at the time of reunification: everywhere in the former eastern part of the city, vacant spaces offered room for new beginnings. At 25, Sabine Dubbers wanted to strike out on her own. After completing her goldsmith training and several years as a journeyman, she attended a guest semester in design at the HdK (now UdK). There she realized she preferred hands-on work to theory.

For 100 Deutsche Mark a month, she rented her first shop in Mitte – cluttered, without windows, water, or heating. Dubbers rolled up her sleeves and renovated the space herself over the course of a year.

Where Is the Boss?

Soon she learned that major changes were underway at the Hackesche Höfe. The severely dilapidated courtyard complex was to be renovated. The city attached clear conditions: Courtyard 4, then known as the “Designer Courtyard,” was to be home to local fashion and accessory labels – at moderate rents. In 1995, Dubbers opened her shop amid scaffolding and construction work. As it turned out, all the entrepreneurs establishing themselves in Courtyard 4 were women.

For Dubbers, a dream came true. “To work with beautiful things, to create something of my own, to bring joy.” The years that followed brought economic ups and downs. Yet, looking back, she considers her greatest achievement to be raising three children as a single mother while building her business. Diapers were changed on the shop counter.

One question from those early years remains unforgettable: “Where is the boss?”

When a Passion Becomes a Business Idea

Over many years, she built a carefully curated collection of exceptional and historical pearls. But she did not stop at collecting. Laun wanted to transform her finds into new pieces of jewelry. In the Hackesche Höfe – nestled between craftsmanship, art, and vibrant urban life – she found the ideal place for her creative vision in the year 2000.

At “Perlin,” color takes center stage. Birgit Laun loves strong contrasts and unusual combinations. Pearls of the most diverse materials, shapes, and sizes are turned into distinctive pieces of jewelry – handcrafted and available exclusively in her own store at the Hackesche Höfe. Each piece is one of a kind. She also creates bespoke designs tailored to individual wishes.

When Floriane Palussiere opened her store Codressing in Courtyard 7 of the Hackesche Höfe in April 2021, the world was in a state of emergency. Due to the pandemic, many shops had to close, and spaces became available — including in the Höfe. For the young Frenchwoman, this was not a reason to hesitate, but an opportunity. She turned an idea into reality that she had previously explored mainly in theory.

During her master’s degree in economics, which she completed in China and Berlin, she analyzed the fashion industry and the concept of the sharing economy. She also dedicated her thesis to this topic. Research became conviction: fashion needs to become more sustainable — and still remain affordable.

Her decision to become self-employed in Berlin was not only driven by her love for the city. It was here that she met her Italian partner, and it was here that she wanted to stay. In the Hackesche Höfe, she found a place that stands for creative independence like few others in Berlin. Surrounded by design, craftsmanship, and an international audience, the Höfe seemed the ideal setting for a concept that rethinks fashion.

Palussiere launched Codressing on her own, with her own savings and without prior business experience. On top of that came the challenge of starting a business in a country that was not her own. She had to navigate language barriers and cultural differences. For this bold step, she had role models — her parents are entrepreneurs as well. The beginning was not easy, but Palussiere succeeded — and she is proud of it. She has built a loyal local clientele and now ships her pieces worldwide.